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Rowe Woodcraft
We specialize in turning handmade wooden pieces on the lathe, usually using exotic woods.
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Tilton, NH 03276

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DOOR LOCKSETS
LOCKSETS FOR DOORS are available in many styles, from sleek and contemporary to detailed European designs. The hardware is made out of many different materials, including chrome, burnished aluminum, brass, and stainless steel. Knobs and handles may even be made out of glass or porcelain. Choosing what is right for your house depends on style and security.

TYPES OF DOOR LOCKSETS
Most home centers carry the following kinds of locksets:
door locksets
Passage Latch

Passage Latch. This does not have any locking mechanism. It is used for interior doors for rooms which don't require privacy, including closets, kitchens, pantries, etc. Passage locks are lightweight tubular mechanisms, requiring two holes to be bored in the door: one hole for the knob assembly and another hole for the latch bolt assembly.

Privacy Door Locksets
. This is usually used for interior bathroom and bedroom doors. It has a push button on the inside which activates a lock. As a safety feature, many privacy locksets can be unlocked by pushing a nail or piece of stiff wire through a small hole in the middle of the outside knob. Privacy locksets also have tubular mechanisms.

Entry Lockset


Entry Lockset.
Designed for exterior doors, entry locksets often have cylindrical mechanisms, which are heavier and stronger than interior tubular locksets. The outside knob of this lockset is keyed: the inside knob has a push button which allows the door to be locked from the inside. For security reasons, the lockset is mounted from the inside of the door so no screws are showing on the outside. Just like tubular locksets, cylindrical locksets require two holes to be bored in the door.

Deadbolt


Deadbolt.
Often used in addition to an entry lockset, a deadbolt is a locking mechanism with a bolt that extends 1 inch into the door jamb. The long "throw" of the bolt deters intruders from prying open the door. Outside, the lock is operated by a key. Inside, the lock is activated by either a thumb lever or a key. If there is glass in the door, a key on the inside is the most secure arrangement but may be a safety concern in the event of a fire or other emergency. Some local codes require thumb levers on the inside.

Rim Lock


Rim Locks.
These surface-mounted mechanisms are either key-operated or have a spring latch that automatically locks the door when

Mortise Lockset

the door is closed. A rim lock does not provide as mucti security as a deadbolt but is easier to install. The lock case and strike plate are simply screwed to the inside surface of the door and door casing.

Mortise Lockset
. This is a locking mechanism which provides both latch
bolt and deadbolt in one large rectangular housing. The lockset fits into a cavity mortised in the door stile. This unit provides good security but is difficult to install.


INSTALLING A LOCKSET
Installing or replacing a lockset is an uncomplicated project. Although many doors these days come with lockset and latch holes already drilled, here are the basic procedures for installing a typical bored lockset in a new door:

Marking the Holes:

• Position the cardboard template included with the lockset so that the lockset hole is centered 37 inches off the floor, and either 2 3/8 inches or 2 3/4 inches from the edge of the door (depending on,the type of lockset).
• Using an awl, mark the centers of the two holes to be bored-one for the latch, the
other for the lockset (Fig. 1).

Use a template to mark the hole location. To measure accurately, fold the template around the edge of the door.

Use a power drill to bore holes in the door. Use a hole saw bit for the lockset hole. Use a spade bit for the latch hole.

Drilling the Holes:
• Using a hole saw, bore the lockset hole (Fig. 2). The hole saw has a pilot bit which guides and stabilizes the saw. Keep the drill square with the surface of the door. When the point of the bit or pilot bit comes through the door on the opposite side, remove the saw and finish drilling from the other side.
Boring the hole from both sides prevents the saw from splintering the door's surface as it is pushed through.
Note: Almost all locksets require a 2 1/8-inchdiameter hole for the lockset, but double-check for your particular installation.
• Drill the hole in the edge of the door for the latch bolt. The diameter of the hole should be 7/8 inch unless otherwise specified. Using a spade or auger bit, position the tip in the awl hole. As you drill, keep the bit perfectly square with the edge of the door until the bit breaks through into the lockset hole.

Carefully chisel out a mortise so that the latch plate is flush with the surface of the door edge.

When installing a keyed lockset align the keyway as shown in the illustration.


Installing the Latch Plate:

• The latch plate is part of the latch bolt. Insert the latch bolt into the edge of the door and press it tight against the edge so it is square.
• Using a sharp utility knife, outline the shape of the latch plate on the door's edge. Remove the latch bolt. 0 Using a sharp chisel, cut the mortise for the latch plate. Lightly score the perimeter, first cutting across the grain, then with the grain. Be very careful not to split the wood.
• Remove the bulk of the wood by making a series of shallow chisel cuts across the grain. Then turn the chisel over and carefully chip out the cuts (Fig. 3).
• Smooth the bottom of the mortise and check the fit of the latch plate. Remove any high spots. When finished, the latch plate should fit flush in the mortise. Note: If you accidentally mortised too deeply, shim out the latch plate with a layer or two of thin cardboard.

Mark the position of the plate on the door edge. This will help when aligning the plate on the door jamb.

Remove the plate and close the door. Find the location of the strike.

Installing the Latch and Lockset:
• Insert the latch bolt and fasten it to the edge of the door-in the mortise-with the screws provided. Drill pilot holes for the screws so the wood won't split. Do not overtighten the screws.
• With your thumb, push the latch bolt flush to the latch plate and insert the exterior half of the lockset assembly into the hole and through the hole in the latch bolt assembly. The two should slip together easily without any force. Once in place, remove your thumb from the bolt.
• Mate the interior knob with the exterior knob stem and screw the two together (Fig. 4). Some locksets have a decorative rose or escutcheon that you need to install between the knob and the door surface.
• Test the knobs, latch, and lock-all should work smoothly. If not, remove the interior knob and check to see if the stem from the exterior knob is misaligned as it goes through the latch bolt assembly.


Mounting the Strike Plate:
The latch bolt of any lockset goes through a strike plate mounted on the door jamb. Its metal surface protects and reinforces the jamb. Proper alignment of the strike plate allows the latch to operate smoothly and the door to close snugly against its stops. The location of the strike plate is especially critical on entry doors with locksets that have a deadlatch (a small, spring-loaded plunger which is located alongside the main latch). The deadlatch, which is held in by a properly positioned strike plate, prevents the main latch from being slipped open from the outside with a knife or credit card.
• Temporarily place the strike plate over the door latch and mark the edge of the door on the top and bottom of the plate (Fig. 5).
• Remove the plate and close the door until the latch touches the jamb. Mark the center of the latch on the jamb (Fig. 6).
• Position the strike plate on the jamb so that it is centered on the latch mark. Also make sure the marks representing the edge of the door are flush with the edge of the jamb.

Mark the position of the strike by tracing the strike plate on the jamb

• Trace the location of the strike plate and the latch cavity on the door jamb (Fig.7)
• Determine and mark the center of the latch cavity. Using a 7/8-inch diameter spade bit, drill a hole deep enough to accept the latch bolt.
Note: If the latch bolt is long, you may need to drill completely through the jamb.
• With a sharp chisel, mortise for the strike plate following your marked outline on the jamb. The depth of the mortise should be the thickness of the strike plate.
• Attach the strike plate with the provided screws. Make sure to drill pilot holes for the screws.
• Close the door and check that knobs and latch operate smoothly.


Dead bolt installation is very similar to lockset installation. Dead bolt goes about 6 inches above the lockset. Use the manufacturer's paper template to locate cylinder and latch holes.

INSTALLING A DEADBOLT
Deadbolts are installed almost the same way as locksets (Fig. 8). Two holes are required in the door-one for the cylinder and one for the bolt. Deadbolts are typically positioned 6 inches above the lockset. This spacing provides a "double" lock effect-one from the lockset and one from the deadbolt.
• Position the template for the deadbolt on the door. Mark the centers of the cylinder and bolt holes.
• Using a 1 1/2-inch-diameter hole saw, drill the hole for the cylinder. Drill halfway from each side.
• Drill the bolt hole, using a 7/8-inch diameter spade or auger bit.

Note: The hole sizes given here are standard, but double-check with the specifications for your deadbolt.

Latch assembly is installed first. Keyed exterior lock mates with interior thumbscrew and is fastened with screws from the inside. Same procedure is followed if both halves of the deadlock are keyed.

• Install the bolt in the hole in the edge of the door and mark an outline of the plate on the door edge. Remove the bolt.
• Chisel out a mortise for the plate. The depth of cut should be the thickness of the plate.
• Insert the bolt in the hole and fasten it to the door with the screws provided. Drill pilot holes for the screws.
• Insert the cylinder, working from the keyed part (exterior) to the thumbscrew (interior). Screw the parts together from the interior (Fig. 9). Test the lock with the key and/or thumbscrew.
• Mark the location of the strike plate on the jamb, as previously described for a regular lockset. Some deadlocks have a double strike plate. That is, the flush-mounted plate is backed up with a reinforcing plate. If your lock has this feature, drill the hole for the bolt and mortise for the flush-mounted plate. Install the reinforcing plate first, using 3-inch screws driven into the trimmer stud. Then screw on the flush mounted plate. If the bolt has to be extended to go into the deeper bolt hole, adjust the cylinder and thumbscrew along the bolt where the cylinder assembly goes through. There should be an extra hole or slot for this.

Door hardware available here.

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