Doweling - Dowel Jigs from Rockler
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 Doweling - Dowel Jigs
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 Rockler 38 Doweling Jig
Hardened steel drill guide will endure years of abuse.Holes are spaced 3/4" on center.Convenient hanging holePrecise centerline for the joint, plus center lines for two dowelsMeasures 2" x 4-1/2"Drill guide is 3/4" thick, perfect for 3/4" face frames
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 Dowl Simpl Kit
Simple to use, the Dow'l Simp'l Kit assists you in centering and aligning dowels on stock that is nominally 5/8", 3/4" and 1" thick. No adjustments necessary to accommodate stock of different thicknesses. When doweling stock greater than 1" thick, registration may be alternated between the top and bottom surfaces to achieve balanced doweling. Kit includes aluminum clamp-on jig with steel inserts, three carbon steel brad point drill bits in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" sizes, three drill stops and wrench, three steel drill bushings, six dowel center points, and wood dowels.
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 Miller Dowel System
Using the Miller stepped bit, a pilot hole is drilled through the top piece and into the substrate. Glue is applied to the rib section. The dowel is inserted and tapped until flush or fully seated in the hole. The remaining portion can trimmed off or sanded until smooth. Review the Miller Dowel Simple Process You will need the Windows Media Player to watch the video. Click here to download the software. Select the best-sized Miller Dowel and corresponding Miller Dowel Drill Bit for your application. Align and secure the wood pieces to be joined. (You may even choose to glue and set all components in place.) Drill the stepped pilot hole for the dowel.* Spread a small amount of glue on the ribbed sections of the dowel and insert it so that it drops approximately two-thirds its length. (It will self-center and align with the 2nd board even if you have not preglued or clamped the components.) Tap the dowel until fully inserted. Trim/sand any raised portion. *The depth drilled determines the depth of insertion. This not only allows users to countersink, tap flush, or leave raised, but also gives woodworkers the option to only use a portion of the dowel. If only 2 sections of the drill bit is used, then only 2 sections of the dowel will be inserted. This technique doubles the versatility of the product because it means that each size Miller Dowel is two sizes in one. It is an ideal feature when depth or thickness is restrictive, or for achieving a decorative effect. 1) Stepped Drill Bit - Bores clean holes and prevents boards from separating as you drill. 2) Easier Installation - Solid wood dowel drops about 2/3 way into hole before you hammer. 3) Stronger Bond - Each step traps the glue and has a larger surface area for bonding. The Miller Dowel is perfect for use in a wide variety of wood joining and fastening applications, such as furniture, decks/docks, stairs and hand railings, cabinets, windows and doors, toys and more! Helps you avoid the problems associated with nails and screws, such as wood rot, metal corrosion and rust, nail pops, and splitting of the grain. Choose from 1x, 2x or NEW Mini-X Quick Drill kits, which include stepped drill bit and 50 Birch dowels. Dowels available in three sizes: 1x for boards up to 1" thick, and 2x for boards up to 1-3/4" thick and NEW Mini-X for joining 1/2' stock. Drill bits fit 3/8" chuck. Additional packs of 25 dowels also available in birch, oak, cherry and walnut. Joining wood with wooden fasteners avoids the problems with nails and screws, such as Wood rot, of which even a minor amount compromises joint strength, 1) Metal corrosion and rust 2) Dangerous Nail Pops or 3) Splitting of the grain. Peg Construction traditionally involves the difficult task of driving a pin dowel into a pilot hole that is just as tight at the top as it is at the bottom. Not only do you have to use a hammer from the very beginning, but it only gets tougher the deeper you get! The MILLER Dowel is inserted 75% by hand because of the relationship of the dowel shape to its pilot hole. You get better holding strength, and it is easier to tap in! Another advantage of having the dowel inserted so far through the top board is that the pilot hole does not have a chance to misalign. The hole for a traditional dowel must be perfectly matched up so the dowel can enter the second piece of wood without problems. The MILLER Dowel is already well into the second piece of wood before you even reach for your hammer! The MILLER Dowel has exceptional holding strength because the shoulder between the widest and second widest sections gets lodged in the top board. This produces a capping effect like the head on a screw or a nail. This dowel has excellent adhesion as glue remains all along the MILLER Dowels length, settling under each shoulder, instead of being forced down to the bottom of the hole or sheared off at the top. Many woodworkers appreciate the decorative appearance of the pegged or look. Since our dowels can be stained prior to insertion, it simple to enhance the contrast for both light and dark woods. Why use plugs to cover countersunk screws? Using plugs involves drilling a pilot hole, screwing in a fastener, then gluing and inserting the plug. Why not just skip a step by using a MILLER Dowel? Plus, you won't worry about the plugs falling out and disappearing. Our fit remains tight. Unlike nails or screws, wooden dowels are naturally flexible and dampen vibration. There is no compression of the surrounding wood, which would loosen the fit. The original intent for our product was to be a safety fastener. Injuries and damages caused by exposed nail/screw heads are prevented by using MILLER Dowels. MILLER Dowels introduce a new joinery technique that can be used instead of difficult, expensive, and/or very time consuming methods like blind dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon. There is one timesaving assembly technique that is made possible by MILLER Dowels. A Chicago woodworker developed this as an alternative to the mortise and tenon joinery in his furniture design. In this method, pieces of wood to be joined are simply glued and aligned. Once cured, the glue eliminates the need for a brace. Pilot holes are then drilled, and the dowels can then be inserted for structural support. Not only does this method guarantee perfectly flush joinery, but it takes 25% of the time!
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