Woody

The plans for this corner cabinet were published in Wood Magazine Dec/Jan 2007. The project was quite a challenge because of the angles of cut, especially the crown molding at the top. I used solid red oak for the face frame, molding and doors, and 3/4″ oak plywood for the rest.
As all woodworkers do, I changed the design some from the original published. Displayed in the cabinet are some of my segmented bowls turned on the lathe.
The attractive molding and trim profiles were made using common round-over, cove, and Roman ogee router bits. Pocket joints were used to join the angled sides to the face frame. The finish has one coat of shellac undercoat along with 3 coats of hand rubbed Minwax oil based polyurethane.

Whether placed above a fireplace or on a shelf, this timeless masterpiece will draw admiring eyes for generations.

Although this clock looks sophisticated, I found it simple to build. Easy-to-make false tenons give the appearance of traditional through-tenon joinery without the layout, mortising, and fitting challenges. And full-size patterns make cutting the false tenons and tapered clock sides a snap. See this article in Wood Magazine for the plans and a convenient source for the clock movement and handsome copper-overlay clock face.

The simple, clean lines of this table allow it to blend with country and contemporary settings. Wooden pins securely join the stretcher to the uprights for lasting durability and classic looks. The top measures 36″ wide by 72″ long.
This plan is great. You can change all the dimensions to suit your needs, such as the one I built below. My dimensions are 22″x48″, and I used 3/4″ New Zealand white pine, which is fairly hard and inexpensive. One thing I wished I did was to use an undercoat of boiled linseed oil as a sealer.

The table below is made from 3/4″ oak ply and black walnut trimming, with solid oak face frame. On this one I used boiled linseed oil as the first coat allowing a week to dry. I then used a second coat of thinned clear shellac as a second sealer followed by 3 coats of hand rubbed poly. The oil gives a nice golden natural color to the piece.

Plans for the Trestle Table can be found here.

One of the materials we use around the shop a lot is medium-density fiberboard (MDF). It’s flat, stable, and a consistent thickness. MDF also machines well for clean, crisp edges and joints. All these great qualities make it sound like the perfect material. But unfortunately, it’s not quite “perfect.” Unlike other materials, MDF doesn’t have grain or plies, which tend to help the screws “grab. That’s not to say you can’t use screws with MDF. But here are a few tricks when it comes to using them successfully.

Screw Type - For years, we assembled projects with traditional wood screws with straight shanks and tapered threads, like the one shown in the left drawing below. Whether we were using them in solid wood or plywood, they worked great. But there are problems using them with MDF. Sometimes the tapered threads on the woodscrew would split the MDF like a piece of firewood. And even if the MDF didn’t split, often there is trouble just drawing the two pieces together tightly without stripping out the threads. To solve these problems, make a couple changes. First, switch the type of fastener used. And second, spend a little more time on the technique of drilling and assembling the workpieces. Sheet Metal Screw - Instead of a traditional woodscrew, switch to a sheet metal screw (see right drawing below). Although it doesn’t look a lot different, you will have more success using them with MDF. The nice thing about sheet metal screws is they’re not tapered. Since the whole shank is straight, it isn’t as likely to split the workpiece. And the threads are a little sharper, so they tend to cut into the MDF better. Technique - As you may have guessed, there’s more to the process of joining two pieces of MDF than just switching to a different screw. It’s also important to drill two holes - a shank hole and a pilot hole. The shank hole is drilled in the top piece, and the pilot hole is drilled in the bottom piece, as illustrated in Figures 1 and 3. Drilling the Shank Hole -The key to drilling the shank hole is to size it so the top piece pulls tightly down to the bottom workpiece. For this to work, you don’t want the screw threads to grab the top piece at all. The first thing to do is find a drill bit that matches the outside diameter of the threads, like you see in the detail in Figure 1. This way, the screw will just slip through the hole without any play (Figure 1).
Countersink - Once you have the shank hole drilled, you can go ahead and countersink it for the head of the screw (Figure 2). Just like the shank hole, it’s important to properly size the countersink. To determine the correct depth to drill the countersink, turn the screw upside down and fit the head into the countersink. The screw will be flush with the surface when the head just fits into the countersink. Flip the work piece over and drill a smaller countersink where the shank hole exits the top piece. So why countersink something you don’t see? The main reason is it’s easy for the fibers in the bottom workpiece to “lift” up. This keeps the top and bottom workpieces from pulling together tightly, as you can see in the far left drawing on the opposite page. Drilling a small countersink provides a clearance area for the fibers. Sometimes I’m looking for a little if ferent appearance on a project than just a plain countersink. The box below shows a couple options to use. Drilling the Pilot Hole - With the countersinks complete, all that’s left to do is drill the pilot hole (Figure 3). This anchors the threads of the screw and prevents splitting. There are two important things to remember here. First, the pilot hole needs to be the right diameter. And second, it needs to be the right depth. Diameter of Pilot Hole - The pilot hole should be about the same size (or a hair smaller) than the root diameter of the screw. Here again, an easy way to determine the right size bit is to hold it up in front of the screw until you find one that allows the root to just barely show on both sides of the bit (Figure 3a). Note: Since it’s hard to find a brad point bit the right size, Use a regular twist bit for pilot holes. With the bit sized, you’re ready to drill the pilot hole. To ensure the pilot hole is centered properly, mark the location using the same brad point bit used for the shank hole. All you need to do is hold the two pieces in position and give the bit a little tap or twist to mark the precise centerpoint for the pilot hole, as shown in Figure 3b. Depth of Pilot Hole - With the pieces still held together, you can drill the pilot hole. How deep should it be? In MDF, drill the pilot hole just past where the tip of the screw will end up (Figure 3). This way, you don’t have to worry about the end of the screw splitting the MDF deep in the hole and “bulging” out the side of the workpiece. Note: For extra holding power, use screws that are 1/2″ - 3/4″ longer than you would typically use for solid wood or plywood. Final Assembly - All that’s left at this point is to screw the pieces together. But there’s one last thing. A power drill can easily strip the threads in MDF, ruining all the work that went into sizing everything properly. So instead of driving the screw all the way home under power, switch to a screwdriver and “snug up” the screw for a perfect fit.

You don’t need to build an entire cabinet to get organized. Shop-built drawer dividers are a great way to organize the contents of any drawer.

Divider System - The dividers consist of an interlocking system (Figure 1) that can be made from 1/4″-thick stock or 1/4″ hardboard. Regardless of the material, what’s important is that all the dividers must be the same thickness to ensure they lock together securely. Size Dividers - To start, cut the dividers to width (height) to match the distance from the drawer bottom to the top edge of the drawer sides (Figure 1). Then for each drawer, cut five side-to-side (S, U) and front-to-back (T, P dividers to length to match the inside dimensions of the drawers.

Auxiliary Fences - Before cutting the joints, I added an auxiliary fence to my miter gauge. Besides providing solid support for the dividers, it prevents chipout on the back side as you make the cut. A second auxiliary fence prevents the blade from “shaving” the rip fence. Then to ensure the joints were cut identically, stack all the same length pieces for each drawer together. After clamping them to the auxiliary fence, you can make the cuts as shown in Figure 2. Cut Joints - After installing a dado blade in your table saw to match the thickness of the dividers, you can cut a notch at each end of the dividers (Figure 2a). Then after cutting a centered notch in each piece, you can cut a pair of notches on each side of the center notch. Note: only cut centered notches for the large drawers. Once all the notches are cut, it’s just a matter of sliding the dividers together and slipping the assembly into the drawer. Then all that’s left to do is gather up all your boxes of hardware and organize each drawer to suit your needs.

Nothing spruces up a plain piece of cabinetry quicker than a piece of molding. Home centers have a large selection of profiles to choose from. Most are designed for a specific purpose baseboard for the bottom of a wall, casing for around doors, and so on. But you can use them any way you want. By stacking moldings, or positioning them next to each other, you can create a custom look. Standard profile moldings are available in random lengths ranging from 4 to 20 feet. Whenever possible, order pieces long enough to span the entire distance; butt joints are surprisingly hard to get perfect. It is worth your while to measure for each piece and make a list. Buy just the sizes you need, adding a few inches extra for each piece. Carved and embossed moldings come in set lengths. Often they are worth the steep price, because a few pieces can have a dramatic effect on your project.
Pine molding is the most common. If you will be painting, primed molding-perhaps made of MDF may be cheaper and will be easier to paint. Oak molding can lend a classy look: make sure the grain and color match the wood it will abut. Paper-covered hardboard molding does not cut cleanly, making it difficult to make a tight joint. It may be difficult to find a factory piece to match the profile of an older molding. However, some lumberyards or wood shops will custom-mill molding for you. It may be worth the extra cost and trouble to get just the molding you want. Use a router to cut a molding profile on a piece of wood. There is a wide variety of router bits; these can be set at various depths and used in combination to make unique edge profiles.
These inexpensive moldings use short pieces joined together end-to-end. As long as the joints are smooth (feel them to be sure), they will paint as well as standard molding; however, the finger joint will show through stain.

These lists below suggest the recommended tools for a beginning, intermediate and advanced workshop. Use the list as general list only, talk to other woodworkers who do the same type of work you are planning.

Common circular saw blades include: carbide-tipped combination blade (A), hollow-ground planer blade (B), a steel alloy rip blade (C), plywood blade (D), and crosscut blade (E).
The success of any woodworking project depends on smooth, precise cutting of the individual pieces-a skill that begins with the choice of the right saw blade for the job.

Circular blades Circular blades for tablesaws, radial-arm saws, and circular saws are first categorized by diameter, ranging from 6″ to 12″. Generally, you’ll want to use saw blades that match the size specified by your saw, although most saws will let you mount smaller diameter blades.

Blade shape: The next important classification is based on the overall shape of the blade and its cutting teeth. For smooth cutting without tearout or binding, all circular blades are shaped so that they are slightly thicker at the outside diameter near the cutting teeth than they are in the center. There are three basic ways to achieve this effect: by “setting” the teeth at a slight outward angle to the blade; by flattening the ends of the teeth or attaching wider carbide steel tips; or by “hollowgrinding” the blade so the inner area is thinner than the outer portion of the blade.
Type of cut. Blade designs also can be categorized according to the types of cuts for which they are best suited, or by the kinds of materials they cut best. These classifications are determined primarily by the shape, size, and number of cutting teeth, as well as the basic shape of the blade itself. Combination blades feature sets of four or five beveled, crosscutting teeth that alternate with straight, ripcutting “raker” teeth. Planer blades, sometimes called precision-trim, give glass-smooth, precise cuts for fine cabinetry. To minimize tearout, they are usually hollow-ground, and have teeth with little or no angle (set) to them. Deep gullets spaced every four or five teeth help the blade dissipate heat, clear chips, and prevent it from wobbling. Rip blades have fewer, larger teeth than crosscut blades. The teeth are hooked forward sharply and are straight at the tips to quickly remove wood fibers. Plywood blades, sometimes called panel blades or trimming/parting blades, have many small teeth, and sometimes are designed so the outer rim is thinner than the center of the blade. This design gives smooth cuts with minimal tearout. They are used for cutting plywood, veneer, and plastic laminates.

Three different shapes for circular blades include: the hollow-ground blade (A), the set-tooth blade (B), and a carbide-tipped blade with tips brazed onto the tooth face

Crosscut blades generally have medium-sized teeth spaced close together. The tips often are angled (set) to help the teeth slice through wood fibers without tearing. Specialty blades: A variety of specialty blades is available for cutting materials other than wood. Abrasive blades made of silicon carbide let you cut ceramics. Aluminum oxide blades are used to cut metals. Metal blades coated with nonstick Teflon work well for cutting green wood, treated lumber, or glue-saturated materials like particleboard.
The carbide-steel revolution Saw-blade manufacturers are now offering a growing number of blades that feature carbide-steel cutting tips bonded to steel alloy teeth. Carbide-tipped teeth are available for most types of saw blades-crosscut, ripcut, combination, and precision-trim. The different types of carbidetipped blades look very similar at first glance, because the teeth themselves are shaped much the same. The difference between combination, ripcut, and crosscut blades lies in small variations in the shape of the carbide tips, so it’s important to check labels closely to ensure that you select the right saw blade. Although they are more expensive than steel alloy blades, carbide-tipped blades last much longer, and the performance is so good that many woodworkers will use no other type of blade. Don’t try to sharpen carbide-tipped blades yourself, though; the tips are so hard and brittle that only a specialist with the proper tools can do this job.
Bandsaw blades The best blades for bandsaws use “bimetal” or “flex-back” construction in which a thin strip of hard tool steel is bonded to a backing strip of more flexible spring steel. The result is a blade that is much less likely to break than older blade types. Avoid bandsaw blades advertised as “soft-edge” blades that can be resharpened. Trying to sharpen bandsaw blades is usually a waste of effort; buy “hard-edge” blades and simply replace them when they get dull. Size: Bandsaw blades are available in several widths, ranging from ~/s” to 4″. Wider blades will give you a straighter cut, making them a good choice for resawing lumber down to a smaller stock. Narrower blades are best for cutting curves. Tooth shape: Bandsaw blades come in three different tooth shapes. Regular-tooth blades are the standard for general use. The teeth have a shallow hook, producing a relatively smooth cut in most woods. Skip-tooth blades have extra long notches (gullets) between teeth for better chip removal and faster cutting.

Typical bimetal jigsaw blades include: a 6 TPI blade with beveled (fleam-ground) teeth for very fast cutting in all woods (A), a 24 TPI metal-cutting blade (B), a 10 TPI fine-cutting wood blade (C), and a 6 TPI fast-cutting wood blade (D). Bandsaw blades use one of three blade shapes: standard-tooth blade (A), hook-tooth blade (B), and skip-tooth blade (C). All three types of blade are available in widths ranging from 1/8″ to 3/4″.

The cut made by a skip-tooth blade, however, is rougher than that made by a regular-tooth blade. Skip-tooth blades are especially good for cutting very thick stock. Hook-tooth blades have teeth with a sharp downward angle. They cut very quickly (though roughly) and are good blades for cutting very hard materials. Specialty blades you can use on your bandsaws include knifeedge blades to cut fabric, leather, and cork, and abrasive bands that let you use the bandsaw as a loop sander.

Sabersaw blades The best Sabersaw blades, like the best bandsaw blades, use the bimetal design that bonds hard tool steel to a more flexible strip of spring steel. Sabersaw blades for cutting metal generally have small, closely spaced teeth set at a shallow cutting angle. Woodcutting blades have larger teeth set at a sharper angle. Type of cut: Sabersaw blades are usually categorized as fast-cutting or smooth-cutting, depending on the number of teeth per inch (TPI). Fast-cutting blades for wood have fewer teeth per inch (usually 5 to 7) and give a rougher cut, while smooth-cutting blades for wood have more teeth per inch (10 to 15). Blade width: Sabersaw blades are commonly available in standard widths (about 5/16″ wide) and scrolling widths (about 3/16″ wide).

Specialty blades available for sabersaw include carbide-coated blades for cutting ceramics and fiberglass, and knife-edge blades for cutting leather and rubber.

Even the most precise measuring tools are useless without an accurate marking instrument. For rough work and marking reference measurements that won’t be cut, a lumber pencil is sufficient, as long as you keep it sharp, but a mechanical pencil, like those used in drafting, is a better choice. Some special marking pencils designed for woodworking have replaceable, longlasting carbide tips that fit into a steel body and never lose their sharp tip. A marking knife makes very accurate scored lines that help you make clean cuts by creating a shallow groove to guide cutting knives and saws. When marking, hold pencils and marking knives at about a 60° angle from the surface of the workpiece.

Graduated marking gauges are mounted on a ruler, so you can scribe lines at an exact distance from the edge of a workpiece.
Pushing a marking gauge produces a more accurate line than pulling.
Marking gauges are available in a wide range of styles designed for specific measuring and marking jobs. A standard marking gauge, has a pointed metal scoring spur or a graphite tip, and a slide that moves along a beam and locks into position to scribe a line the desired distance from the edge of the workpiece. Other special purposes for marking gauges include marking mortises and following the edges of curved workpieces. Brass inserts in the beams of some models allow for very accurate calibration of scribing distances, and some gauges are mounted on rulers.